Ochs und Junior Due Ore reviewed
Ochs und Junior is the cerebrum offspring of Ludwig Oechslin and Beat Weinman and as of late Ulysse Nardin went ahead board as the third accomplice. An intelligent third accomplice, on the off chance that you find out about Oechslin’s accomplishments in the horological world. Since 2009 his thoughts come to fruition in Ochs und Junior timepieces.
Ochs und Junior watches are unmistakable by their clean and practically modern plan, lacking any sort of common watchmaking wrapping up. Also, lacking any name or logo! The moderate plan and crude, incomplete, machined parts decide the vibes of all Ochs und Junior watches. Fortunately I was permitted to acquire a Due Ore for a review. It’s a difficult undertaking, however someone’s gotto do it…
I needed to say that the story started with Ochs und Junior’s first watch, the Anno Cinquanta, anyway that wouldn’t be right. It really started with the MIH Watch , a collaboration between Ludwig Oechslin, Beat Weinman from Swiss watch seller The Embassy and originator Christian Gafner. Oechslin being keeper of the Musee International d’Horlogerie in La Chaux de Fonds made this watch to produce assets for the reclamation of the monumental Vachey Clock, a enormous and extremely complicated clock. The MIH Watch, restricted to 100 pieces for each annum, is as yet accessible and for each sold MIH Watch 700 CHF is given to the museum.
Beat Weinman and Ludwig Oechslin stayed in contact and when Beat saw all the splendid thoughts Ludwig concocted, they concluded there was significantly more that should have been finished. Furthermore, subsequently the participation accepting another shape as Ochs (bull in German) und Junior (… suppose all of you get this). Early this year a third accomplice, Ulysse Nardin, joined Ochs und Junior, making sure they will have a consistent inventory of ETA developments (presently Swatch Group ends conveyance to outsiders). Another thing is that Ochs und Junior can likewise utilize the fresh out of the box new Ulysse Nardin in-house development, type UN-118.
The first watch to be delivered under the Ochs und Junior banner was the Anno Cinquanta, which was accessible in gold and silver (!!) as it were. This watch, despite the fact that it came in valuable metal cases, came with no type of wrapping up. The thought was that (particularly the silver) case would acquire scratches, dings and obviously patina throughout the long term. By wearing the watch it truly becomes your own timepiece.
Inside the Anno Cinquanta ticks a lovely development, planned and work by Paul Gerber. A development with a stunner and finish, that appears almost unusual for the (modern) Ochs und Junior way of thinking. Following models were presented as thoughts and models first, gradually finding their approach to become part of the assortment. Since the most recent couple of years Ochs und Junior offers practically the entirety of their models in the Tinta assortment that is unmistakable by the titanium cases and the likelihood to pick your own shade of the dial, hands and strap.
The watches in the Tinta assortment are fueled by the super-solid and reasonable ETA developments, permitting to keep costs between CHF 6,000 and CHF 8,000. The Due Ore Tinta, that I got for testing, is together with the Mese Tinta at the passage level of CHF 6,000. The Selena Tinta and the new Anno Tinta are accessible for CHF 8,000. One special case however; the Settimana Junior is accessible for just beneath CHF 3,000. The Settima Junior is Oechslin’s thought for a children’s watch, anyway it’s really an ideal watch each and every individual who lean towards a watch with a width of 36 mm.
Now back to the Due Ore I got to wear… The Due Ore is essential for the Ochs und Junior Tinta assortment. All watches in the Tinta assortment include a titanium case, with a distance across of either 38 mm or 42 mm. The incomplete titanium case is made by Peter Cantieni , who additionally fabricates titanium parts for the BMW Sauber Formula 1 vehicles. He delivers all cases, dials, plates, hands and other mechanical parts for the OuJ ‘uncomplicated’ complications. Also, he makes the titanium button for the leather wallet you can use to wrap your Ochs und Junior watch in.
Slide the watch in and it would seem that this…
The word (and name of the assortment) ‘Tinta’ represents shading. Essentially implying that you can pick the shade of the dial from every accessible tone. You can likewise pick the shade of the markers, hands, tie and sewing anyway from a predetermined number of tones. The form OuJ loan me for this survey has a dim blue dial with light dark hands, numerals and hour markers. The olive green tie has naval force blue sewing and matches delightfully with the dial and strap.
When wearing an Ochs und Junior you realize you wear a lovely watch, yet there’s no high-cleaned finish, no glossy parts, no extravagance sparkle and fabulousness. So it’s more your own realizing that you’re wearing an extravagance watch, that doesn’t have an extravagance acknowledgment factor like Rolex for instance.
The clean looks with nearly bauhaus-like minimalistic configuration is remarkable among extravagance watches. While wearing the Due Ore I got many compliment from individuals who ordinarily never focus on watches. The Ochs und Junior watches are in all probability implied for individuals who like to wear a decent and dependable watch, however who don’t care for the ordinary extravagance looks practically any remaining watches feature.
The Ochs und Junior watches don’t have any logo or brand name, aside from a brand-blemish on the internal side of one piece of the tie. One more illustration of the extraordinary moderation of Ochs und Junior.
The Due Ore highlights, similar to the name as of now says, a subsequent time region. For this situation it’s honey bee done very clever, by supplanting the date plate by another circle with numerals from one to twelve. Through twelve gaps in the dial, these twelve numerals are noticeable and empower you to see the time in a second time zone.
To change the subsequent time region, the circle with numerals can be turned through the crown. Just put the distinction in hours between your time region and another time region, in the opening over the 12 o’clock position. You currently utilize the hands to peruse your own time, yet you should disregard the numerals. At the point when you need to know the time in the subsequent time region, essentially read the number close to the hour hand… et presto. In one flicker of an eye you see the time in another time region. It sounds simple and it additionally IS not difficult to change and to read.
Like all watches from the Tinta assortment, the shade of dial, hands and records is of your own decision. For the dial you can pick each conceivable shading you can envision. Simply notice the ISO shading code in your request and it will be finished. The tones for hands, numerals and records can be looked over the alternatives of glowing material: orange, red, light blue, light green, camel earthy colored, dark, dim, lilac, yellow, white.
On this test model the dial is dim blue, near dark, and the hands, numerals and records are light dim, nearly white. What is truly cool, is that the white paint utilized for hands, numerals and lists is iridescent. So it’s simple to peruse double cross zones during day and night.
The titanium case is processed from one square of titanium and has not be ‘finished’ like ordinarily occurs in the watch business. The case is a two section case, that comprises of a case back with drags and the other part is both the mid-case just as the bezel. This subsequent part is gotten with four screws, experiencing the case back. Titanium is probably the hardest metal utilized for watch cases and this has the preferred position the case doesn’t scratch simple. A gigantic bit of leeway as I would like to think, since I wear my watches on practically all events, so some scratch-proofness is consistently welcome.
The sapphire gem is treated with against intelligent covering, however just within. A savvy decision, in light of the fact that the actual covering can get scratch by ordinary every day use. It happens to numerous watches and when it does, it really begins looking terrible. So again a shrewd and useful choice.
Because of the incredibly short hauls and the rather slight case (10 mm) the Due Ore wears a lot more modest then one would anticipate dependent on the predetermined the 42 mm. I should concede that when I initially saw the test watch I was persuaded that the distance across was 38 or most extreme 40 mm. So while 42 mm seems like a rather enormous watch, it really wears rather little and downplayed. The ‘understated’ is obviously likewise charge to the un-finish case and moderate design.
The lash is an eco-tanned leather tie and within one of the parts shows the Ochs und Junior brand mark. The shade of the sewing is additionally of your own decision. Also, to close the tie, you can look over an ordinary titanium tang clasp or this new plan from Ludwig Oechslin. In the event that you doubt… pick this one! No flappy stays of the tie that must be held near the tie, it is currently handily concealed under the strap.
The just part that I don’t need to spent such a large number of words on, is the development. Inside all Tinta models ticks the über-dependable ETA 2824 that has served so many watch brands of a wide range of make.
Except… In the Due Ore the date system has been changed and the date circle has been supplanted. The 12-hour circle can be changed through the crown, like changing the date. The thing that matters is that the date hops after two full pivots of great importance hand. This doesn’t occur with the 12-hour plate and the system that is liable for this programmed change of that circle has been taken out. For the rest it’s the notable ETA movement:
- automatic, date indication
- diameter: 11.5 ligne = 25.6mm, stature is approx. 4.8mm
- 25 jewels
- b/h = 28.800
- power hold 40h
The decision – geniuses and cons
The size, the incomplete looks, the selection of shadings, the moderate plan, the “no logo”…. These things all add to what Ochs und Junior is doing. With the majority of these components they are really putting themselves outside the ‘normal’ watch industry’s business. Furthermore, that’s presumably what I like such a huge amount about the brand, the thoughts and obviously the watches.
Everything about the Due Ore feels better, strong, quality and keeping in mind that wearing it for quite a while you won’t be disillusioned. The something little I can bother about is that the ‘unfinished’ looks have a little disadvantage to them, which is that the hauls are somewhat sharp. You won’t cut yourself on them, in no way, shape or form, however exactly when you go over them with the tip of your finger they feel sharp.
The second time region work is staggeringly essential, yet it does precisely what it ought to do. It tells the time in another time region and it does this in an instinctive manner. The watch capacities consummately, wears entirely comfortable and it’s in every case simple to peruse time on it.
One thing… the quantity of positive reactions from companions and partners was amazing. Possibly not from the typical ‘hard core’ watch devotees, but rather from individuals who generally never investigated any of my watches before. Structure follows function… I love it.
More data can be found on the Ochs und Junior site . They likewise have an extraordinary blog, the Ochsenblog and even offer intriguing news on their official Facebook page .
This article is composed by Frank Geelen, leader manager of Monochrome Watches