Checking in with the Germans: Nomos, Damasko, Stowa and Archimede
Any long-time peruser of worn&wound knows of our affinity for German watches. From intense reason driven brands like Sinn and Damasko to Bauhaus stalwarts like Nomos and Stowa, the Germans are in an alliance of their own with their unique blend of significant worth, engineering, and design. A week ago, we announced two new watches from Sinn , the U212 (EZM 16) and the restricted edition 1800 S Damaszener. Today, we are checking in on a portion of our other most loved German firms and taking a gander at a couple of their recent deliveries, just as some that you should watch out for in the future.
Timeless Luxury Watches x Nomos: Midnight Edition Orion
Earlier this year, Texas retailer Timeless Luxury wowed us with their blue-dialed Club collaboration with German watchmaker, Nomos. This week, they announced their second communitarian watch with the brand and unsurprisingly, it’s a serious looker. Using the adaptable 38mm Orion model as a base, the Orion Midnight Edition includes a new blue dial like the one found on the Zurich blaugold, however a shade hazier (hence, the name). There are two versions of the watch: one with silver accents and the other with gold, with each style restricted to only 75 pieces. Both are stunning, yet the gold variant is particularly lovely with the warm indices contrasting wonderfully against the inky blue of the dial.
Powering the collaboration is Nomos’ hand-winding Alpha movement changed with the swing framework, Nomos’ in-house escapement. The two watches will come combined with a dark shell cordovan lash (purchaser can determine favored length).
The Orion Midnight Edition is $2,760, and Timeless is currently accepting pre-orders. In the event that their last delivery was any indication, these will go quick. To hold one, tick here .
Damasko is a moderately young German company known for building watches that are basically indestructible, with restrictive case tech that humiliates most different firms. Yet, beyond their reformist casework, Damasko is likewise an undeniable manufacture, having delivered the programmed A35-1 in 2010, and then the manual winding H35 type two years later. And these aren’t run-of-the-factory ETA clones, by the same token. The two types highlight a free-sprung balance like that of Patek’s Gyromax framework, featuring little loads called collets (instead of screws) that take into account adjustment without the need of a traditional controller. This design considers a bigger balance wheel, which in turn hypothetically improves in general performance. Damasko’s types likewise have an in-house manufactured EPS silicon hairspring and a silicon get away from wheel, two highlights used by generally not many other makers.
This past week, Damasko began rolling out their newest watch with the most recent iteration of their in-house movement, the DK200 controlled by the A35-2. The DK200 is an enormous stylish flight for Damasko, a firm known for its unmistakable design ethos. The DK200 has a new dial design and a Genta-inspired case made of Damasko’s popular ice-hardened steel, and highlights alternating brushed and cleaned surfaces–something that I imagine is very hard to accomplish. The movement is an adjusted A35 with an additional GMT complication, making it the main GMT watch from the brand just as Damasko’s first in-house GMT movement. Unfortunately, similar to GMT movements from ETA, the hour hand isn’t independent on the A35-2, yet there is a quickset date function for setting the date independently. The Damasko DK200 isn’t broadly accessible yet, yet it will retail for $3,750 .
STOWA Flieger Klassik Sport
In the most recent few years, Stowa has been growing its list by introducing contemporary moves up to their preexisting lines. Among these updates are the TO1 TESTAF and the Flieger GMT, the two of which modernized the look and utility of their traditional counterparts. In incomplete keeping with this direction, this previous summer Stowa discreetly unveiled a new arrangement of Fliegers, a collection named the Flieger Klassik Sport.
The Flieger Klassik Sport arrangement comes combined with a vigorous 43mm case featuring a thick sapphire gem, a screw down crown, and an amazing water resistance of 200m–a welcomed move up to the 5atm rating found on the chronicled arrangement. The Klassik Sport arrangement wears similar as the TESTAF TO1, however the exemplary dial options–Flieger without logo (with or without date), Flieger with logo (with or without date), Flieger B-dial, and the Ikarus–give the arrangement the look and feel of the traditional Flieger lineup.
The new case comes with a little surcharge–retail is €1,067 without VAT (roughly $1,170 as of this writing)–but it is a value that is merited. We got the opportunity to play with the new line at Wind-Up and it didn’t disappoint. The fit, finish, and generally feel were fabulous, and had this been a bigger Swiss firm the arrangement would effectively cost north of $2,000.
To buy, head on over to Stowa’s e-store .
Ickler 90th Anniversary Archimede Pilot Chronograph
Watch case manufacturer Ickler is synonymous with German quality and esteem, and the brands under the Ickler umbrella encapsulate those ideals better than most. Archimede is likely the most popular of the Ickler family, with a changed list that we’ve checked on a few times previously. In 2014, Ickler announced their intention to deliver a restricted edition Pilot Chronograph featuring a tricompax format dependent on a top-grade 7750 with a Soprod module, an extraordinary rotor, and in-house heat blued hands. Unfortunately, Ickler couldn’t stay aware of the manufacturing demands related with producing heat-blued hands internally, so the arrival of the watch was deferred. Recently, Ickler announced their intention to finish the undertaking, with the custom rotors being the only part left for Ickler to manufacture.
Aesthetically, the Archimede Pilot Chronograph is a stunner with the new balanced format, heat-blued hands, and the warmth blued insignia under 12 o’clock–all of which give the bundle a very good quality feel. It will come in the original Pilot Chronograph case, measuring 42mm wide with an increased tallness of around 14mm to accommodate the module.
Due to the custom nature of the undertaking, no cost or delivery date has been set. To keep steady over the task, follow Ickler’s blog and Archimede’s online media accounts .