Back to the Future! As Marc Jenni Re-Invents the Winding Crown!
There are a couple of shows in watchmaking that have existed for quite a long time. One is that all-mechanical watches require a crown for winding and setting. Marc Jenni didn’t see it very that way and found a ‘horizontal’ answer for a roundabout problem.
Sometimes in life it’s simpler to simply take the path of least resistance and acknowledge things for what and how they are. To depend on practice! Then once more, once in a while it’s outright BETTER to run contrary to the natural order of things! (Who says the world HAS TO BE level? Who says desert needs to come AFTER supper?) Who says that a mechanical watch must have a crown and stem for winding and setting?
If you consider the winding crown, it’s somewhat of a little known thing! For reasons of water pressing factor and residue, it must be fixed on different occasions – otherwise you leave your gadget open to the components. For security reasons it must be reinforced with hefty ‘shoulders’ to ensure that you don’t remove the thing by incidentally jolting your wrist against an entryway jam! Contingent upon which side of the case you mount it to, either right OR left-gave individuals will think that its uncomfortable to wear… You would have figured the normal determination of configuration would have winnowed off the line of crown-uncovering watches hundreds of years prior! Yet, rather it is as much a piece of the standard wrist or pocket watch as the dial!
Marc Jenni ( first included in Monochrome.nl here! ) didn’t see the need for a crown and a stem – so he fabricated a watch without them! What’s more, in this manner he has set up himself as one of the most youthful and most energizing stars in the AHCI constellation!
By method of a little history, Marc Jenni’s set of experiences as a watchmaker returns around 250 years to Glarus, Switzerland… er, rather I intend to say that Jenni can follow his family line in the business right back to his distant uncle Johan Jacob Jenny (of note is that Jenny – like Jenni – had a one of a kind perspective on, making pocket watches with excellent and sharp methods of communicating the day and date!) Marc Jenni turned into an advanced watchmaker around twelve years prior – working with the absolute most profoundly valued names in ‘name brand’ adornments – making ultra complicated pieces for Tiffany and Co. just as one of the sturdy names of autonomous watchmaking – Paul Gerber (who is likewise answerable for the amazing MIH Watch ).
Since 2010, Jenni and accomplice Vincent Mafé have attempted to make their novel and delightful watches. The main line of watches to be furnished with the case wrapping winding/setting ring was the ‘Introduction.’ Based on an adjusted 22 gem ETA ebauche, the watch was the first to include the, presently exchange mark press button at 4 o’clock and ring. The press button capacities to permit the wearer to choose from Winding mode, (hack style) Setting mode and Date mode. You basically select which of the three modes you need, and afterward utilize the smooth and tactilly fulfilling to utilize ring to wind the barrels, set the time or change the date. (A three-sided show somewhere in the range of 3 and 4 o’clock demonstrates what capacity is selected.)
While the undeniable feature of the Prologue is the winding-crown, or rather, the LACK of a winding crown, the weighty 44mm, multi-piece case gathering is outwardly engaging. Similar to the dial – with power-hold marker and date – highlighting dazzling knife style hands. The by and large elaborate impact is that of something that is advanced, however by one way or another antiquated simultaneously. I’m sorry to repudiate myself so effectively, however it is difficult to portray in words… envision what it resembles to write in pictographs today – yet to just discover those works millennia later! The dial has all the earmarks of being representative of something – yet rather than a roughly cut stone or generally etched scene, the dial of a Marc Jenni watch is frightfully awesome; like it weren’t so much ‘made’ as it simply kind of showed up at the base of a laser light from space! THAT is the means by which the dials appear to me.
￼￼The “JJJ” (a recognition for distant uncle Johan Jacob Jenny) and the more female ‘Curve’ (see beneath) additionally include the press button selector at ‘4 and the firm, smooth turning case-wide ring. While the Arch actually utilizes the profoundly altered ebauche development, the JJJ (presented above) conveys a completely in-house power-plant. While the Arch has a ‘basic’ dial with just date, power-hold and the three-sided pointer, the JJJ has a rather more intricate dial with each one of those equivalent highlights, however remembers day and date for spot of simply the date. The JJJ has something else however… on the dial, simply over the section for the hands of the dial there is a baffling oculus. The oculus shows the antiquated galactic images for the planets addressing every one of the times of the week! This offbeat element is another gesture back to distant uncle Johan – whose own pocket watches in the eighteenth and nineteenth hundreds of years bore the equivalent markings!
It is in parts incomprehensible and fitting that Marc Jenni would decide to think BACK two centuries to discover motivation for his modern looking and working horological magnum opuses. The mystery is that the business that exists today has the advantage of the multitude of points of reference that have just been set and the entirety of the innovative headways that make the development of a standard timekeeping instrument to some degree basic. However it is fitting in the regard that looking back so far into the historical backdrop of watchmaking (and his family’s ancestry in the business) naturally returns him to an age when the standards were all the while being composed – and therefore it was a lot simpler to be shocking.
Perhaps if Marc Jenni had lived two centuries prior we couldn’t ever have become used to those bothersome and projecting twisting crowns in the first place!
Here’s a connect to Marc Jenni’s site and you can likewise follow Marc on Facebook , where he posts quite a bit of his work in the atelier!
This article is composed by Mario Squillacioti, contributing essayist for Monochrome-Watches .