Affordable Vintage: 1954 Longines Conquest
In 1954 Longines dispatched the Conquest line, and with it another period for the company. The Conquest was the initial phase in another turn of events and advertising methodology with a named line or group of watches. A lot more were to follow, yet the respected Conquest (such an incredible name too…) was the start. Having a named group of watches surely wasn’t presented by Longines, yet they unquestionably used the system to its fullest potential, and still use it today (as do most current brands). After the Conquest came the Flagship, at that point the Admiral and Grand Prize among others. The original Conquest investigated here is presumably the most work of art and effectively unmistakable emphasis of the line for authorities of vintage watches. It ran from 1954 to around 1959, when another case shape and development were presented. This Conquest was really gone before by the All Guard, a watch that common a comparative case, development, dial and hands.
The case is an examination in straightforward yet rough odd take on the cold, hard truth. Like a significant number of the Omega Seamasters of the period, it estimates 35.2mm wide by 42.6mm long with 18mm carries. Talking about drags, this model has excellent husky carries with a pleasant inconspicuous chamfer on the external edge, again like the Seamasters. The caseback notwithstanding, is very unique and something that set the Conquest apart from different peers. It has a thick, screw-in back with a twelve sided polygon plan for the caseback instrument. Obviously, any quality caseback wrench can be utilized, however Longines made a particular instrument for each size of back, as most makers did. With the assistance of an individual authority, I had the option to obtain and illustration of said wrench, which is a pleasant extra touch (see pictures).
The back is finished off with a wonderful gold emblem in the middle. It’s profoundly engraved with a fish theme and has a fabulous dark green veneer covering. Around the edge is engraved “Longines Automatic Waterproof”. Numerous brands used caseback emblems, however the Longines emblems were tops as I would see it. The case reference number “364” is stepped within the back, just as the posterior of the 10 o’clock drag. While I’m a major fanatic of bigger (40mm+/ – ), there’s something about the 35mm lively dress watches of the 1950’s that sits perfectly on the wrist.
As pleasant as the case and back are, it’s the dial that truly makes this model sparkle. It’s a matte gleaming champagne tone with applied faceted steel markers. The markers at 12, 3, 6, and 9 are pointed stone molded, while the others are marginally more modest trapezoids. There is a brushed silver round track that goes around the dial at the level of the markers. Contingent upon the light, this track can look either lighter or more obscure than the remainder of the dial. There is a fine moment hash mark track right inside the silver circle. Marked “Longines” and “Automatic” beneath the 12, with an applied steel Longines flying hourglass logo in the middle, and marked “Conquest” over the 6. Obviously, it’s endorsed with the pervasive “Swiss” underneath the 6 exactly at the base edge of the dial. The “Automatic” and “Conquest” are imprinted in an unmistakable content that was utilized by Longines for quite a long time, and is quickly conspicuous as having a place with the Longines brand.
Plain steel dauphine hands were utilized and compliment the sharpened stone markers. Also, to finish everything off, this original rendition has no date window…a amazing thing. While I can positively feel for those that favor a date and the helpful usefulness that goes with it, I generally lean toward the non-date renditions as it adds to the general evenness of the dial. There are many illustration of perfectly executed dials from the 1950’s, yet this dial is among the best with its blend of surfaces and colors, and the utilization of the intensely faceted and striking steel markers combined with the fine and unmistakable content. Really a work of horological art.
There were a wide range of dial varieties made for the Conquest line. There were ones with gold markers, and dark dials with gold or steel markers also. There was additionally a date rendition with the date window at 3 o’clock. Strangely, the date window on these early Conquests were put marginally more inwards towards the focal point of the dial instead of at the external edge just like the standard. Later they made a form with the date window at 12, which extended into a wide range of Conquest models throughout the resulting many years and turned into a mark look. The Conquest model saw endless distinctive dial and case plans throughout the a long time as the line proceeded into the 1970’s, yet this original dial configuration is certainly the most famous of the family. The case was accessible in steel, gold plate, and strong gold.
Now, open up that executioner caseback, and the genuine magnificence of the 1954 Conquest is uncovered: The Longines type 19AS development. It is a 19 gem programmed development that beats at 18,000 bph with a 39 hour power save. The type 19AS is a flat out marvel to view, with excellent perlage completing and a remarkable appearance. Oneself winding rotor weight takes up a comparatively huge measure of room while the actual development is more modest in distance across yet thicker than most. Presented in 1952, it came in sub-seconds, focus clear seconds, date and non-date varieties. The early forms additionally came furnished with a Breguet hairspring. Evidently not the most effortless development to chip away at attributable to its extraordinary design, it is by the by a hearty and dependable development that is pursued by wise authorities. The development is wound and set by the larger than usual and exceptionally molded crown. It is about 6mm in measurement, and endorsed with the Longines name and logo. It includes an unobtrusively fluted edge for better grasp, and is a truly pleasant completing touch.
The Conquest was accessible on an arm band or calfskin lash with Longines marked clasp. With its 18mm carries, there are really various vintage Longines wristbands that can be found to go with the Conquest, however I lean toward the vibe of a decent cowhide tie on this model. I’ve figured out how to locate a right 1950’s steel tang clasp, an image of which can be seen underneath. I generally love the little additional items like a right clasp on a vintage watch. These watches are very collectible today, and the different Conquest models can command as much as a few thousand dollars for certain models. The original Conquest can be found with persistence for somewhere in the range of $500 up to $1000 for a steel or gold plate variant relying upon condition. Strong gold cased variants go for extensively higher of course.
In the 2000’s, Longines honored this vintage exemplary with a Heritage rendition. Longines has since quite a while ago came out on top in first rate legacy forms of their past models, and the Conquest is no special case. The Conquest Heritage was made in a 35mm size just as with an acrylic Hesalite gem, much the same as the first. Relatively few companies will go 35mm on an advanced men’s watch, however Longines did the first proud.